[Coco] Unpacked my CoCo Stuff
Roger Merchberger
zmerch-coco at 30below.com
Thu Apr 12 11:13:00 EDT 2007
Rumor has it that coco at yourdvd.net may have mentioned these words:
>true, i once saw a jet black coco 2 - it looked awesome! it had yellowed
>severely and the owner sprayed it black. looked good... r
1) Depending on the type of regular paint, you might not *want* to use
regular paint. However, there's paints (dyes, I think) you can pick up at
auto parts stores which are designed to bond with plastic - and if done
right, these work very well. When I redid a (crappy) PC keyboard in a nice
brick red for testing purposes, it was too cold where I did it, and it
didn't *quite* bond perfectly in one spot - otherwise it was very nice
looking. Think many *very thin* coats in a warm environment and make sure
each coat cures thoroughly, and they work very well and it's quite durable.
Very small scratches don't affect the finish from what I know, it "soaks
into" the plastic just a little, from what I understand.
Also, if you have a buddy that owns an auto body paint shop (like I do)
drop by with a sixer & ask them for advice (like I did ;-) - with all of
the cars having plastic bumpers & whatnot, my friend says that they have
special coatings & paints designed for plastic - if bug juice won't peel it
off, I doubt you'd have to worry about fingernail scratches like you might
with some paints.
For yellowing, I've never tried one of those Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, but
it might be worth it - what it can do with coffee/tea stains on porcelain
is pretty wild, maybe it'll help?
2) WRT care & feeding of old computers, yellowing, cleaning, etc... there's
been many threads over on the classiccmp list that I'm a member of, and the
archives can be found here:
http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/
It's searchable, expect a lot of hits.
For the OP's situation, a gentle cleaning with isopropyl alcohol (try to
find the 90+% stuff, usually find that at a drugstore like Walgreens,
Rite-Aid, CVS, etc. here in the USA) and a toothbrush (if necessary), then
rinse with deionized water & let dry for at least a few days - or you _can_
speed drying if you're *very* gentle by putting the non-plastic parts to be
dried in an oven that can be set to around 120 degrees F. If you're oven
won't go that low, don't try it... try to be as gentle as possible. Make
sure things are *completely* dry before reassembly. If in doubt, wait
another day.
You can clean things in a dishwasher - I've heard of several people being
successful cleaning beverage residues out of keyboards that way. Top rack
only, no soap, do *not* run the drying cycle, and if the dishwasher has a
built-in water heater, don't use that either. Again, let dry several days
before plugging or powering. In the immortal words of Alton Brown: "Your
patience will be rewarded."
HTH,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger | Anarchy doesn't scale well. -- Me
zmerch at 30below.com. |
SysAdmin, Iceberg Computers
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